stevenbunn Fri, 02/27/2015 - 10:36
Garter Mortise in underside of the Movable Jaw
 
The mortise for the garter is 3/8 inches wide, two inches long and two inches deep. I roughed out the mortise using my drill press with a temporary adjustable fence. I cleaned up the faces of the mortise with a bench chisel.
stevenbunn Fri, 02/27/2015 - 10:24
The inside face of the Movable Jaw
 
This image gives you a different view of the hole in the jaw for the bench screw. You can also see the 5/16 inch diameter stopped holes that hold the metal bar stock that form the guide bars of the vise. When I see this photo, and the next on in the series, which shows the stained weathered edge on one end of the stock, I think of Tim, my editor at American Woodworker Magazine. He might like everything about this photo. But, he would still send me back and have me do it over, even if it meant I had to make up a completely new jaw. The magazine's photograph standards did not allow saw burn marks and other defects in the finished article. These were distracting to the readers, and always led to letters of complaint to the magazine. Tim was always telling me that he loved image #33 of maybe fourty or more shots. But could I shoot the same image over, because, well there some tweaks to be done. So, apologies to Tim.
stevenbunn Fri, 02/27/2015 - 09:41
Front view of the moving jaw
 
Front Jaw Construction
 
This photo of the front jaw shows the rounded profile easing the jaw's outer edges. It also shows the location of the 1-1/4 inch diameter hole in which the bench screw seats. The garter slot cut in the bottom edge of the work-piece can be seen as well. As you can clearly see, I let a flat face on the jaw's top around the mortise drilled for the round shaft of the plastic bench-dog. The hole for the bench screw is centered in the length of the jaw and up 1-5/8 inch from the bottom edge. The block which forms the moving front jaw of the vise is to small to safely rout free hand. I cut mitered faces on the ends of the jaw using my table-saw and miter fence. Then I used a file and a spokeshave to round over the flat facets creating the curved profile you see here. I used the spokeshave again to form the interrupted curve on the top edge of the block.
stevenbunn Thu, 02/26/2015 - 16:04
Here is another view of the fixed jaw, showing the front view of the jaw. You can clearly see the #8 woodscrews that help hold the jaw in position, as well as the threaded hole for the bench screw, and the two holes through which the guide bars pass. Note that you have to make matching holes in the center plate of the nearer pair of legs for the guide bars and shaft of the bench screw to pass.
stevenbunn Thu, 02/26/2015 - 15:19

 To recap from an earlier post. I really liked the min-bench featured in the December 2014 issue of FWW. I wanted to make a copy of it. But I also wanted to keep the cost of materials down, and frankly, I am incapable of following any published plan exactly. I like traditional wooden vises and hand-turned wooden bench screws. So the version of the small bench I made incorporated a vise I made, and the other parts were constructed from scraps and cut-offs, which might otherwise have gone in the woodstove. The bench I built is inspired by the FWW bench, but is not a duplicate of it. Consequently be aware that any dimensions I mention may not agree with similar measurements given in the earlier article. You are free to use the information given in this and the following posts to make a similar vise for your mini-bench. The only cost to you is a beer drunk to my health, in thanks. To keep things simple, rather than attempt one article length post, I am breaking the story up into smaller segments. This keeps things sane for me and keeps the number and size of the accompanying photos within the limits set by the blog program.

Building A Wooden Vise for Your Mini-bench

The Fixed Jaw

The mini-bench I built has a Maple top 2-1/2 inches thick, 9-1/2 inches in width, and a length of a little over 42 inches. Adjust any of the measurements shown here to fit your top. The  faces of the vise are both made from material 1-1/2 inches in thickness, 5 inches wide and 9-1/2 inches in length. I started construction of the fixed jaw by cutting away a chuck of waste to create a large rabbet in the work piece 1 inch deep and 2-1/2 inches wide. This created an L shaped block. The rabbet seats against the end of your top, with the narrow lip forming the gripping face of the fixed jaw, and wider lower section, fitting tightly against the underside of the top, is threaded and lag-bolted to the bench top.

 

In this small block drill seven holes. In the upper narrow section, two counter-sunk screw holes for the #8 x 2 inch wood screws that secure the jaw to the end of the bench. A larger thru hole centered in the length of the block, and 1-5/8 inch up from the bottom face of the stock. This hole will be threaded, so the diameter of the hole you drill should equal the root diameter of the tap you use. The used a 1-1/4 inch tap and die set. The hole I drilled at this point was 1-1/16 inches in diameter. There are two 7/16 inch diameter through holes in the  lower face of the jaw through which the guide bars in the movable jaw pass. And two 3/8 inch diameter holes drilled vertically in the lower arm of the L, so that 3-1/2 inch lag bolts can be screwed into the underside of the top to lock the jaw securely in place. Note: I will add a dimensional drawing later this week showing the location of the holes described to this post.

stevenbunn Thu, 02/26/2015 - 13:49

Several people have emailed me to let me know that they were not able to log into the blog to comment on one or another of my posts. My programmer is working to fix this problem, and I hope to have this feature running correctly soon. In the meantime, if you want to comment on something I've written, please send your comments to me at my email address, stevenbunnfurnituremaker@gmail.com. I will copy your comments and post them on the blog. Thank you.

A more detailed explaination of the log in problem is as follows. When the site was up and running on my designer's computer, the programming underlying the sign in part of the blog was being swamped by ads generated by spam-bots. So Jessica turned off the log in function for everyone except me  for the time being. Stay tuned. We will get the bugs out of the site soon. In other news, the few comments I have received has prompted me to post photos and instructions describing the construction of the small wooden vise I made for my version of the mini-bench, mentioned in an earlier post. Again thank you for your interest.

stevenbunn Sat, 02/14/2015 - 20:22
 
The base molding is built up using four layered profiles, wrapped around the font's base. The profiles were formed by hand using several traditional wooden rounding planes and a good old regular block plane. I like the over all traditional look of the profile, but am thinking of making the final lower profile from stock a quarter of an inch wider. This version is 3-3/4 inches wide. Four inches would allow the rounded profile to extend over and beyound the base, creating a better shadow line and stronger visual impact.
stevenbunn Sat, 02/14/2015 - 20:07

Baptismal Font Project

One of my long term projects is a commission to build a baptismal font for the Phippsburg UCC church. The church is celebrating it's 250th anniversary this year, and monies were set aside for several commemorative pieces of furniture to celebrate the anniversary. As an aid to myself, and to better visualize the design for the church committee overseeing the project, I decided to create a full-sized mock-up of the font. This allowed me to get a better sense of the mass and proportions of the design. Early work on the model led me to increase the diameter of the center supporting pedestal from 7 to 8-1/2 inches, as this gave the font greater visual impact. I increased the diameter of the top basin segment by the same amount to keep everything in proportion. I love the size and grounded-ness of the large built up base molding. The profile was based on molding profile found in an early New England church, dating to around 1720. It looks satisfyingly Gothic to me, and speaks to the traditional look requested by the church. I still need to create the octagonal ogee profiled top for the basin before presenting the font to the committee for approval or design changes. Even in plain pine with moldings only applied part way around the font, this is a nice looking creation.

stevenbunn Sat, 02/07/2015 - 09:01

Minibench

Every month wood-working magazines feature another article describing the construction of a work-bench. The variety is astounding even mind blowing. Many of the designs are eye catching, and more than once I've almost, almost started to consider building one of these beauties. The thing that always holds me back is the reality that I have already built eight, maybe nine, work-benches in my life, and six of them are sitting in my shop. Enough is enough.

 

Then I read Steve Latta's article “Minibench Works Wonders,” in the December issue of Fine Woodworking magazine. In his article Latta describes building a small bench that clamps to the work surface of his work-bench. This raises the work to a more convenient height for doing intricate detail work on small work parts. I make a number of miniature Windsor chairs every year. And I often have found myself uncomfortably bent over as I carve the saddle of a miniature's seat on my regular work-bench or assemble the small chairs. Latta's design was not only appealing, it actually addressed a real problem I had not found an answer for myself. I copied the article and set it aside, concentrating instead on paying work. Still, the little bench had grabbed my interest. I found myself rummaging through  the scrap wood pile, looking for cut-offs that would be suitable for the parts Latta's bench required. My one design constraint was monetary. I wanted to build my version of the bench as cheaply as possible. Using scrap wood, and forgoing the purchase of an expensive bench vise, (the days of cheap Taiwanese vises appears to be a thing of the past) I built the small bench pictured here. I ended up spending less than $20.00. I limited my purchases to a set of Rockler plastic bench dogs and a length of 5/16-inch diameter metal rod, used to make the guide bars on the wooden vise.

 I added a Roubo style crooked planing stop to the front edge of the bench, and drilled ranked holes in the front legs allowing loose fitting wooden pins to be adjusted to support edge planing stock. Is this carrying things to far? Maybe. We'll see after I use the minibench a while.

 
stevenbunn Thu, 02/05/2015 - 08:29
 

We have had three snow storms since last friday, and it is snowing this morning as I type this post. As you can see in the picture, between my plow guy and the drifts walking out to the shop has become quite a chore. Luckily, we live on a hill top, so the wind has scoured the snow off the ground behind the barn. So my route to work now incorporates a detour around the barn. Have a good day.

 

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